Best way to mount an ESC? (2024)

Mar 31, 2006, 06:00 PM

• #1

mcg

Thread OP

Discussion

Wondering how to go about mounting an ESC. It is a Phoenix 10. The PC board is encased in a transparent shrink wrap. I understand these units need to dissipate quite a bit of heat, so it would seem best to suspend the thing in midair somehow, and let it radiate.

Manual is mute on this subject.

What is the standard or typical procedure, if any? Velcro or doublestick seem attractive, but would surely seal in a lot of heat.

Thank you for your insights.

Michael

Mar 31, 2006, 08:37 PM

• #2

j.Rendon

The standard seems to be either double sided tape or velcro.
Double sided tape is best for smaller applications, such as with your
10 amp Phoenix.

Velcro works best in larger electrics. The sticky back that is on the
velcro does not stick well to the inside of the fuselage (balsa) so it usually
needs to be glued to it for a firm fit.

The whole point of attaching it it so that it does not move while
you are flying, which could cause other problems.

Cooling of the ESC should not be an issue if one side is exposed to air
and as long as it is being used within it's manufacturers suggested specs.

Regards,

Jesse

Mar 31, 2006, 09:37 PM

• #3

Blaze.45

Which isn't always the case. In some cases you want that extra added security of a NON-failing BEC.

Some opt to mount it in the cowling of the plane... so it gets much airflow, but is still hidden. Although in a head-on crash, this isn't where you want your ESC to be.

Some opt to drill small cooling holes in certain hidden spots that channel air directly to the ESC's position.

And in some cases, some opt for hanging it out of the battery hatch thru a small hole for maximum cooling.

---------

These are only generalizations and ideas of what I've seen many do. Although the great thing about this hobby is that you can do it however you like... invent a way... and then post and share your idea to the world.

Do whatever it takes to your liking... just "Git'r Dun"

-Chris

Mar 31, 2006, 09:48 PM

• #4

PGR

One side of a Phoenix-10 has 6 FETs arranged in 2 rows of 3. Put the 2-sided tape or Velcro on that side. This may sound counter-intuitive but there is actually good reason for doing so:

The BEC circuit is on the opposite side of the board and that circuit is far more prone to thermal shutdown and damage than the FETs are.

I found a pretty good way to mount an ESC so both sides get air circulation: I use a piece of plastic tube that the ESC fits tightly into. The stuff I use for P-10s was originally a protective tube that a long 1/2" drill bit came in but any hard plastic tube of the correct diameter for the ESC will work.

I cut a section of tube about as long as the ESC is. I size the tube so I have to squeeze it into an oval to slip the ESC in and when I release the pressure, it tries to spring back into a circle which tightly grips the ESC by it's edges. Now I can stick, glue, or Velcro the tube to a convenient location and there's still plenty of air flow over the top and bottom of the circuit board.

Pete

Apr 01, 2006, 09:09 AM

• #5

ray foley

pgr:

The heat shrink protects the electronics from mechanical abuse, electrical shorts, as well as giving the MFGR a place to put labeling. However it is a killer from a heat transfer point of view.

I really like your innovation. It protects the esc from mech and elec abuse and enhances airflow all around. Bravo!! The next step is remove the heatshrink and put the mfgr label on the outside of the tube.

ciao -rjf

Apr 01, 2006, 11:43 AM

• #6

j.Rendon

Pete,

Great idea! I may have to try that on a larger conversion I am currently
doing. Thanks!

Jesse

Apr 01, 2006, 12:05 PM

• #7

mcg

Thread OP

It is inspired, this plastic tube approach. Did you, as rfj has suggested, remove the manufacturer's protective heat shrink?

For some scale models, as of prototypes that had air scoops for oil or water radiators (P-51, aerocobra, some Schndier cup racers) it is really a natural. I also like Chris's idea of putting it under the cowl. Maybe a way to combine some of these ideas.

Thanks.

Apr 01, 2006, 12:11 PM

• #8

PGR

Thanks for the kudos, but I need to unload here a little:

I don't typically use a 10A ESC in a 10A power system or a 25A esc in a 25A system, etc. Pushing things to their design limits is asking for trouble and makes things like adequate airflow critical. That may be appropriate in a competition environment but there really is little excuse to do so in a recreational one.

I typically try to run ESCs at 50-75% of their design limit and under those loads, no consideration for thermal issues is necessary. None! I put double-sided tape on the FET side of the ESC, stick it in a convenient location, and fly and I've never had a single failure.

Uh ... No ESC failure anyway.

Pete (who does occasionally fly competition planes)

Apr 01, 2006, 03:07 PM

• #9

INewton

I attach my ESCs, where possible, to the aluminum motor mount with the heat sink side against the aluminum. Normally the air intake is just below the prop or fully around the prop. I add a baffle to blow the air over the motor and ESC. It's good to put a laminar flow air exit at the bottom-rear of the cowl if there is not one built there already since a good air exit will suck out air from the entire model.

If you don't cool your ESC, the FET resistance rapidly rises and the ESC needs to be derated almost 40%. In addition too much voltage is usually lost and motor power is reduced.

Apr 01, 2006, 04:07 PM

• #10

mcg

Thread OP

How is the ESC mounted against the aluminum? Is it mechanical or is it possible to stick it in place using heat transfer paste, e.g., Arctic Silver?

RC boat racers in the era before brushless used a lot of the stuff to contact the motor case to water cooling coils. PC overclockers also love it. I have a tube. Not sure it would stick to the heat shrunk tube surrounding the ESC, tho.

Apr 01, 2006, 04:40 PM

• #11

Balsabird

Apr 03, 2006, 02:44 PM

• #12

E-Challenged

Apr 03, 2006, 03:06 PM

• #13

e-guru

I see your reasoning but can anyone else weigh in on this??? I've always thought to cool the FET side as they are the heat producing elements! Maybe I need to go around and flip all my ESCs!!!

Apr 03, 2006, 04:19 PM

• #14

PGR

Here is a quote from the FAQ page in the Support section of the Castle Creations website:

I believe the recommendation to leave the BEC side exposed also came from CC but I can no longer find the reference. But CC has a forum in the Vendors section of RCGroups and they're pretty good about answering questions.

Pete

Last edited by PGR; Apr 04, 2006 at 12:26 AM.

Apr 04, 2006, 12:42 AM

• #15

e-guru